Astrophotography
Most any lens will work for Piggyback astro-imaging.
Single focal length lenses are better than zoom. However, some single
focal length lenses are better than others. How good your images look
will depend on your lens choice and your choice of f-stop. Imaging pinpoint
stars across the full field of a 35mm negative is a very difficult thing to
ask of a lens. Typically, faster lenses will have a tendency to show optical
defects unless stopped down a little. Here are some examples of these
defects and how to correct them:
This defect shows itself on an astrophoto as a brighter area at the
center of the image with darker corners. This defect is typically found
when lenses are used wide open. The solution is stop down the lens a
stop or two (or three for a really fast lens). This makes for a longer
exposure, but imaging faster is no bargain if the image is poor. Here
is an example of my Olympus 50mm f/1.4 lens at various f/stops.
Notice the vignetting reduction as the lens is stopped down.
Click Here for image
This defect shows itself often in very fast lenses. Typically,
a person will want to image with a lens wide open to build up an
exposure as fast as possible. Lenses vary in this regard, but often
this is the wrong choice. Here is an example of my Olympus 50mm
f/1.4 lens at various f/stops. I have zoomed in to the star images
at the corner of the negative. Notice that the star images sharpen
up as the lens is stopped down.
Click here for image
This defect causes different colors of light to focus at
different distances from the lens. Typically, lenses have problems
focusing blue light at the same place as the rest of the colors.
This affects longer focal length telephoto lenses more than shorter
ones. Expensive "ED" lenses are better at correcting this. Typically,
this defect will show itself worst when the lens is wide open.
Here is an image taken with my Olympus 180mm f/2.8 telephoto lens at
f/2.8 and at f/4 . Notice that the blue halo around a bright star is
much reduced when the lens is stopped down.
Click here for image
Moral of the story...when taking piggyback astrophotos, use a
manual shutter, single lens reflex camera with changeable lenses and a
"bulb" setting. Use a non-zoom lens, and stop it down a little for best
quality. Almost all lens problems are reduced by stopping down one or
two stops. Try it with your lenses and see!
The latest crop of 400 and 800 speed color negative films (as of 1/02) is a
mixed bag for astrophotography. There is a disturbing trend emerging in
some of the current reformulated film emulsions. Fuji is migrating to a
"4th color layer" technology. Their Superia 400 and 800 speed films already
have it. A comparison of spectral sensitivity curves shows that the layer
that produced red color has had its peak sensitivity shifted from about
650 nanometers to about 625 nanometers. This apparently better mimics
the sensitivity of the human eye. But, it is a disaster for astro-imaging.
The all important hydrogen alpha emission line is at about 656 nanometers.
This new breed of film does not record it at all. The effect is weird.
An image with the new films show all the stars the same as before, but red
nebulosity has vanished!
Kodak has also introduced some films that have downshifted the red
spectral sensitivity peak away from the h-alpha line. The MAX 400 is
particularly bad. Here are links to spectral sensitivity curves from Kodak's
web page that show a good h-alpha recording film (LE 400) vs. a bad one
(MAX 400). Note the peak of the "cyan forming layer" that records red color
is much lower on the MAX 400.
Agfa Vista and Futura films were not tested, because their spectral
sensitivity curves indicate they would be poor choices. Red sensitivity has
been downshifted away from the h-alpha line. In fact, Agfa makes a big deal
about this shift (as an improvement). It probably is an improvement for
regular photographs...but not astrophotographs!
Poloroid high-definition 400 speed film (made by Agfa) is, by far, the
worst film tested. It not only records red and blue nebulosity poorly, but
images stars much less deeply than all the others. And to boot, the bright
stars that are imaged have a bright blue halo around them not visible in the
other films tested. Yuck!
Here are the current 400 and 800 speed films that have a good h-alpha
(red nebula) response They are listed in order of preference:
Here are the films that have a moderate to marginal response to
h-alpha (in order best to worst):
Here are the films with essentially no h-alpha response:
The blue nebula response differences are more subtle. There are some
differences, and the films with the best red response are not the best for blue.
Click here for a composite image comparing many 400 and
800 speed films straight out of the box. The test objects were the California
Nebula for red sensitivity and the Pleiades for blue sensitivity. Each exposure
was 8 minutes long at f/3.3 through a 200mm telephoto lens. The resulting
negatives were digitally scanned and assembled into a composite comparison image.
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